What Is Radon? Should You Be Concerned?

Radon – what is it? Radon is a naturally occuring, colorless, orderless, tasteless, and chemically inert radioactive gas. It is formed by the natural radioactive decay of uranium in rock, soil and water. How Does Radon Enter My Home? Every home has its own unique pressurization signature that is created when the heating, ventilation, plumbing and drainage systems work together. This pressure is typically less than that of the soil around your home’s foundation. This difference in pressure acts like a vacuum and pulls the majority of the radon into the home through cracks in the foundation and other openings. Other, lower risk points of entry can include well water and certain building materials, including granite and concrete products. Radon can be found in both new contruction as well as older homes.  Should I be Concerned? Radon has been identified by the US Surgeon General as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It is responsible for tens of thousands of deaths every year, nearly as many as those that result from drunk driving. It is important to note that this threat is completely preventable through adequate testing and remediation.
Above is a map of Bucks County, broken down by zip code that displays potential exposure to Radon.  Each zip code is color coded based on the percentage of homes that are at or above 4.0 pCi/L, a level as established by the U.S. Congress as being equal to that found in the outdoor environment.  The dark green areas have 10-20% of the homes above this benchmark, whereas 80-90% of homes in the dark red areas are outside of this established level. The Enviornmental Protection Agency recommends fixing your home if one long-term Radon test, or the average of two short-term tests show levels above 4.0 cCi/L. While there is no “safe” level of Radon, as even one particle can theoretically begin the chain of events that leads to lung cancer, it’s best to reduce this level as much as possible. How Do I Assess My Risk? Several types of tests are available to assess the Radon levels in your home; a short term test can take as little as 48 hours or up to 90 days, and a long term test lasts 90 or more days.  Radon levels can fluctuate in your home over time.  Many factors can play a role in your Radon levels including the seasonality (winters are worse), time of day, even the present weather conditions.  The Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection has partnered with the American Lung Association to promote public awarenes, testing & mitigation.  In doing so, they are providing a limited number of FREE radon test kits to Pennsylvania residents who have not yet tested their homes. Click on the link above to order your free test. Remediation Options On average a remediation system will cost between $800-$1200 depending on the type of home and the services that are required. Many recently constructed homes are equipped with a passive radon system, a 3-4 inch PVC vent pipe that is sealed either below the basement slab or into the sump pump, and runs up through the home where it vents out the attic.  Often, this type of system is not sufficient in reducing the levels below 4.0 pCi/L. The addition of a “radon fan”, or vent pipe can often remedy this situation by lowering the radon to an acceptable level. Below is a list of additional mitigation techniques that can be performed by a licensed remediation technition.

Radon Reduction of Various Mitigation Techniques

Technique	Typical Radon Reduction	Comments
Subslab Suction (Subslab Depressurization)	50 to 99 percent	Works best if air can move easily in material under slab.
Passive Subslab Suction	30 to 70 percent	May be more effective in cold climates; not as effective as active subslab suction.
Draintile Suction	50 to 99 percent	Can work with either partial or complete drain tile loops.
Block-Wall Suction	50 to 99 percent	Only in homes with hollow block-walls; requires sealing of major openings.
Sump-Hole Suction	50 to 99 percent	Works best if air moves easily to sump from under the slab.
Submembrane Depressurization in a Crawlspace	50 to 99 percent	Less heat loss than natural ventilation in cold winter climates.
Natural Ventilation in a Crawlspace	0 to 50 percent	Costs variable
Sealing of Radon Entry Routes	See Comments	Normally only used with other techniques; proper materials and installation required
Home (Basement) Pressurization	50 to 99 percent	Works best with tight basement isolated from outdoors and upper floors.
Natural Ventilation	Variable/ Temporary	Significant heated or cooled air loss; operating costs depend on utility rates and amount of ventilation.
Heat Recovery Ventilation, or HRV	Variable/ See Comments	Limited use; effectiveness limited by radon concentration and the amount of ventilation air available for dilution by the HRV. Best applied to limited-space areas like basements.
Private Well Water Systems: Aeration	95 to 99 percent	Generally more efficient than GAC; requires annual cleaning to maintain effectiveness and to prevent contamination; requires venting radon to outdoors.
Private Well Water Systems: Granular Activated Carbon, or GAC	85 to 99 percent	Less efficient for higher levels than aeration; use for moderate levels, around 5,000 pCi/L or less in water; radioactive radon by-products can build on carbon; may need radiation shield around tank and care in disposal.
NOTE: Mitigation costs vary due to technique, materials and the extent of the problem. Typically the cost of radon mitigations are comparable to other common home repairs.

Frank Dolski   MBA, ABR, e-PRO Associate Broker Certified Relocation Specialist  Previews Luxury Home Specialist Coldwell Banker Hearthside Realtors  Ranked #1 In The State of PA in 2012 For Affiliated Coldwell Banker International Realtors 2012 Coldwell Banker International President’s Elite Award 2010-2011 Coldwell Banker International President’s Circle Award 215-803-3237 (mobile) 215-794-1070 x-103 f.dolski@cbhearthside.com www.FrankDolski.Com